CHACHAPOYAS

Altitude: 2,335 m | Climate: 14–23°C | Mild with frequent rain, misty mountain climate
How to get there: Flight from Lima to Jaén (1 hour) + 5–6-hour drive, or direct bus from Lima (24 hours)

Chachapoyas is a destination that feels like a discovery. Located in the high jungle, between mist-shrouded mountains, it’s home to pre-Inca ruins as impressive as those of the Incas — but without the crowds.

The city itself is small and colonial, with a classic main square, white walls, and wooden balconies. The atmosphere is peaceful and friendly — but the real magic lies in its surroundings.

The main attraction is Kuelap, often called the “Machu Picchu of the North.” Though the comparison is imperfect, it gives an idea of its grandeur. This massive fortress of the Chachapoya culture stands atop a 3,000 m mountain, with walls up to 20 m high and hundreds of circular dwellings inside. The views across deep valleys and drifting clouds are unforgettable.

A modern cable car now connects the base to the site in just 20 minutes — an easy, scenic ride with breathtaking views.

The Chachapoyas people, known as the “Warriors of the Clouds,” built their cities in impossible places — cliffs, mountain peaks — and resisted Inca domination for centuries, until the Spanish conquest.

Another marvel is the Karajía Sarcophagi — human-shaped clay coffins, two meters tall, placed high on a vertical cliff over 500 years ago. How they were positioned there remains a mystery. The one-hour trail to reach the viewpoint is as beautiful as the sight itself.

Practical tip: Chachapoyas is remote but well worth the journey. The weather is unpredictable — sunny, foggy, and rainy, often all in one day — so bring layers and a good rain jacket. Mosquitoes are fewer than in the low jungle, but bring repellent anyway. The altitude is moderate and manageable.

GOCTA WATERFALL

Altitude: Base 1,800 m a.s.l. / Waterfall 2,000–2,500 m a.s.l.
Climate: 16–24°C | Cool–temperate, frequent rainfall (cloud forest)
Distance from Chachapoyas: 2 hours by car to the village of Cocachimba, then a hike

Gocta is among the highest waterfalls in the world, with a total drop of 771 meters in two tiers. For perspective, that’s nearly twice the height of Iguazú Falls. It’s colossal.

A remarkable fact: Gocta was known only to locals until 2002, when a German explorer in the area inquired about the cascade, measured it, and realized it ranked among the world’s tallest. Only then did it gain international attention.

Reaching Gocta requires hiking. There are two routes: from Cocachimba or San Pablo. The Cocachimba trail is more popular and takes 2–3 hours one way. It’s not extremely hard, but it’s not a casual stroll either: you’ll climb and descend, cross small streams, and walk through dense vegetation. The trail is well marked and well maintained.

As you approach, you’ll first hear the roar, then glimpse a white ribbon of water carving down the mountainside. Standing at the base of the lower fall, the scale is humbling: spray lifts into a mist and you’ll get wet from several meters away. It’s awe-inspiring.

You can stop at the lower tier or continue up to the upper fall (about one more hour of hiking). From above, the valley views are beautiful, and you see the waterfall from a completely different angle.

Along the way it’s common to spot Andean cock-of-the-rock (Peru’s national bird), a brilliant orange and famously shy species. You may also see hummingbirds, toucans, and—if you’re very lucky—monkeys. This is cloud forest, so biodiversity is high.

Cocachimba offers simple lodges and local restaurants. Staying there lets you set out early; otherwise, you can return to Chachapoyas the same day (it’s a long but feasible day trip).

Practical tip: Wear proper hiking footwear—the trail can be slippery after rain. Trekking poles help. Bring water, snacks, a rain jacket, and a spare layer in your daypack—you’ll likely get damp from the waterfall’s mist. Use sunscreen: even under clouds, high-altitude sun is strong. Start early (around 7–8 am) to enjoy a relaxed pace and avoid hiking back late.

There is an entrance fee (about S/ 10) payable in the village. Local guides are available if you wish to hire one. The path is clear, but it’s always worthwhile to support the community.

Chachapoyas in a nutshell

Perfect for travelers seeking off-the-beaten-path archaeology, extraordinary nature, towering waterfalls, and that rare feeling of discovering a region not yet on every Peru itinerary. Getting there takes time—and that’s part of the magic.